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Mendenhall’s Museum of Gasoline Pumps and Petroliana gives visitors an appreciation of America’s unique roadside culture.
(Elisa Parhad)

Horses, vineyards and a charming petrol museum: 13 reasons why Buellton is worth a stop

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It might be hard to believe, but this month marks 20 years since Miles Raymond — Paul Giamatti’s character in the 2003 Academy Award-winning movie “Sideways” — threw a fit about drinking Merlot. We all know what happened next: Merlot sales plummeted (and still haven’t quite recovered), Pinot Noir sales soared and the Santa Ynez Valley became a beloved destination for wine-focused getaways. The allure is understandable — it’s a relatively short travel time from Los Angeles and has a laid-back, approachable feel, a pleasing pastoral landscape and exceptional food and wine.

A good bit of “Sideways” was filmed in Buellton, one of the Santa Ynez Valley’s six towns. It sits just off Highway 101, making it easy to bypass as you turn toward its well-branded Danish-themed neighbor, Solvang, to the east. This may be especially true now that Buellton’s famed roadside eatery, Pea Soup Andersen’s, shuttered in January just shy of its 100th birthday.

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I, too, bypassed Buellton back in May with my two teenage and pre-teen sons in tow. But they had no patience in Solvang for the long lines, meandering couples on romantic outings or European flair. (They made exceptions for many Danish sweet treats, though.) Last month I discovered that Buellton, a surprisingly family-friendly destination, is more their speed. I’ve taken note.

Apparently, this tendency to overlook Buellton is just history on repeat. From 1949 to 1964, Buellton was known as “Service Town, U.S.A,” a thriving stop on Highway 101, a hub for gas and other services for travelers headed up and down Highway 101 between Los Angeles and San Francisco. When the main route was taken out of downtown Buellton in a 1964 freeway remodel, business slowed.

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In the following decades, Buellton kept doing its thing as a center for ranching and growing as a hub for the burgeoning wine region. It explains the slightly industrial look. Or as local winemaker Colin McNany of MarBeso Wine says: “Buellton is the bellybutton of California. It’s centrally located, slightly awkward and highly necessary.”

The beauty of anniversaries is that you get to revisit what makes something great and discover new dimensions in the process. “Sideways” nostalgia brought me back to Buellton, and after spending a few days there, I fell for “Service Town, U.S.A.” As you’d expect in a locale steeped in the broader Santa Ynez Valley culture of food and wine making, even the local 76 gas station had some seriously delicious oak-grilled tri-tip sandwiches, burgers and burritos that you’d never expect to find between the drip coffee, Takis and beef jerky. (And, if you need some morning brew, head straight to Little King Coffee.)

All this to say, I urge those looking for shady wineries, a break from the crowds, incredible food and loads of unique adventures to revisit Buellton and do the same.

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AJ Spurs Saloon & Dining Hall
(AJ Spurs Saloon & Dining Hall)

Get your fix of the Old West at AJ Spurs Saloon & Dining Hall

Buellton BBQ
Thankfully, Solvang does not have a monopoly on kitschy decor. Get your fill of the Wild West at AJ Spurs Saloon & Dining Hall — taxidermy, wood paneling, red booths and all.

With another location in Grover Beach, AJ Spurs is a Central Coast local institution. Cocktails are served in mason jars, steaks are double the size of your fist and you can’t move your eyes two inches without scanning a different classic western artifact. This is a place for celebrations. If you don’t have a birthday or graduation dinner, visit to tick off your “Sideways” location bucket list. Just note that the menu does not include corn bread, like the waitress offers to Miles and Jack in the movie. I made the mistake of asking for some.

The interiors may be overkill for some, but AJ Spurs is the real deal. Its menu takes notes from the Basque sheepherder traditions across the West by serving up classic Basque foods in a family style and meats cooked in an oak-pit barbecue. At your seat, you’ll be handed a menu that mimics the form of a newspaper and despite what you order, your meal begins with a salad, a hearty vegetable soup (served in a cast iron pot) and salsa and beans meant to be mixed together. Being in wine country, the restaurant also has its own line of wine available in a wide range of varietals.
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Ellen's Danish Pancakes
(Elisa Parhad )

Fill up with sweet breakfast at Ellen’s Danish Pancake House

Buellton Breakfast
Looking for a hearty Danish-style breakfast without the long lines? Pivot your thoughts from Solvang eateries and head to Ellen’s Danish Pancake House, a local’s favorite for decades. (Technically, the restaurant started out in Solvang in 1947. It moved to Buellton in 1985.)

This low-key country kitchen serves up egg breakfasts, omelets, French toast and other diner-style favorites. And what exactly are these namesake Danish pancakes? Thinner than crêpes, “pandekager” are crisped before they are folded and covered with a sprinkling of powdered sugar. Whether you order them plain or with a large helping of fruit and whipped cream, they’ll come with a basket of fresh, house-made jams. For the full Danish experience, get Danish pancakes with a side of Danish sausage, which comes as a large link, or the Danish sausage pancake, with sausage folded into both the batter and in between cooked pancakes.

If you are missing the Danish pastries or “aebleskivers” (Danish pancake balls) served at other Solvang hot spots, Ellen’s enormous cinnamon rolls will satisfy any leftover sweet, carb-filled cravings that pancakes don’t quite tickle.
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Highline Adventures
(Elisa Parhad)

Fly down California’s longest and fastest zip lines at Highline Adventures

Santa Barbara County Ziplines
Down a dirt road, just past Ostrichland, is Highline Adventures, where you can test your bravery on California’s longest and fastest zip lines. From base camp, guides drive groups to the top of the mountain where the longest of three zip lines (3,348 feet to be exact) begins. After takeoff you’ll fly through the air roughly 500 feet above the canyon below. The second line gets a little shorter and faster, and the last is where speed is queen. You’ll be asked to extend your arms and legs (the “star” position) to slow yourself down at the bottom.

Zip lining is thrilling, but adventure is only part of the reason to partake in this activity. The high vista gives you access to sweeping views of Buellton, Solvang and the surrounding landscape of vineyards, ranches and rolling hills. From this vantage point, you’ll also be privy to an exotic element not typically seen: proteas. The owners of the property took an interest in these ancient flowering plants and began planting acres of sugarbushes, cone-headed banksias and pincushions in 2014. You’ll get an especially good view of them on your first zip line. Take the Protea Walking Tour ($50) for an in-depth journey into this unique species and bring home a bundle of their large blooms.

Zip line tours last 1.5 to two hours and start at $139. Check the website for seasonal adventures, such as nighttime Fright Flights and spooky Glow in the Park events.
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Santa Ynez Valley Botanic Garden
(Elisa Parhad)

Discover the world of native plants at Santa Ynez Valley Botanic Garden

Buellton Botanic Garden
The Santa Ynez Valley Botanic Garden shares a parking lot with River View Park, on Buellton’s residential west side. Only those looking for the garden are likely to find it, but the payoff is the discovery of a serene hideaway. The natural beauty and shady walkways provide the perfect destination for a short stroll in between wine tasting or meals or as a place for youngsters to blow off steam and explore the natural environment.

Plants featured at the garden are native to the Santa Ynez River watershed, organized into thematic areas, including “Basket Weaving,” “Chaparral” and “Rain Gardens.” At the far back corner is the “Family Garden” where children will delight in tunnels to climb through and the custom-built Woodland House, seesaw and vehicles made from logs.

Both the natural beauty and the interactivity of the gardens make it a study for inspiring environmental education — snap a selfie with giant monarch wings, place a wish at the Wishing Tree and wander through the Willow Maze while learning about this unique natural environment.

To find the gardens, head to the far end of the River View Park parking lot and continue to walk in the same direction you drove in. Look for a bridge topped with an entrance sign. The garden is open every day from sunrise to sunset and admission is free.
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Get crafty while you sip at Community Clayworks

Buellton Ceramics studio
During the week, Community Clayworks is a creative hub for local ceramic enthusiasts, offering private lessons, workshops and membership. The most accessible event at Community Clayworks is the Saturday night Sip-N-Spin event, from 7-9 p.m., where all are welcome.

Joy Hylton, a Sip-N-Spin instructor, encourages everyone — including beginners — to join. “Most people who come to a sip and spin have not ever worked on a wheel before,” she says. “It’s always really fun. When you start no one knows anybody, but by the end of the evening everyone is good pals.”

You’ll learn the basics of throwing clay on a potter’s wheel before the instructor sends you on your way to get your hands dirty. Once finished, you’ll select your glaze option and Community Clayworks will do the rest to trim, fire and glaze your work, which can be picked up at a later date or shipped to you for an additional fee.

Community Clayworks is on the backside of an industrial park behind Monighetti’s livestock supply store, between Figueroa Mountain Brewery and Summerland Wines (a wine packaging facility). This means that locally brewed beers are an easy option for pickup before the BYOB Sip-N-Spin, unless you prefer to uncork that bottle of vintage from your last wine tasting room stop. Non-alcoholic options can be found down the street at Industrial Eats or Sunrise Organic Marketplace. Whatever you choose, Community Clayworks will provide you with a handmade ceramic goblet, mug or cup so you can sip in style.
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Firestone Walker Barrelworks
(Elisa Parhad)

Sample a pint or two at Firestone Walker Brewing Co. – Barrelworks

Buellton Brewery
This may be wine country, but that doesn’t mean that serious beer mavens are left out of the action. While Paso Robles is home to Firestone Walker’s largest taproom, Buellton is the site of the brewer’s original taproom, as well as home to the brewery founders.

Firestone Walker is the maker of the wildly popular 805 Blonde Ale, named after the region’s area code. Sure, you can find 805 at Buellton’s taproom, called Barrelworks, but leave it for a grocery store run at another time and explore the imaginative side of Firestone Walker with this taproom’s specialty instead: wild, sour and barrel-aged limited release ales. To get a sense of all that’s available, try the beer flight (from $25 for five “wild ales” or “strong ales”). If you want a hearty meal to soak up the alcohol, a full gastropub menu is on offer. Table No. 72, made out of a stainless steel brew kettle, is a unique place to nosh with a group.
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Hitching Post 2 with Frank Ostini.
(Elisa Parhad)

Pretend you’re in 'Sideways' at Hitching Post 2

Buellton BBQ
Not much has changed at the Hitching Post 2 since “Sideways” made the restaurant a destination 20 years ago, and that’s a wonderful thing. This is the establishment that Miles, a socially awkward oenophile played by Paul Giamatti, proclaimed “one of the best places to eat in the Santa Ynez Valley.” It still is.

The Hitching Post 2’s reputation is built upon decades of perfecting Santa Maria-style barbecue. Longtime grill masters staff the pit, as does Frank Ostini at times, the restaurant’s self-described chef-winemaker. Look out for him behind the glass-encased open-pit grill on view from most of the dining room. He’ll be wearing a pith helmet. “People don’t recognize me without it,” he says. “It’s the goofiest thing, but you know, when you’re wearing it, you can’t really tell.”

Two decades on, new customers still come in from around the world to experience the storied movie location and its spot-on dishes: grilled artichoke, wine-marinated sautéed mushrooms, cold-smoked, oak-grilled duck breast and the signature filet mignon.

Wine aficionados come for the house-made Highliner Pinot Noir, featured prominently in the movie. Just as Miles did, you’ll want to sit at the bar to enjoy a glass. Or pick up a 2021 vintage commemorative bottle ($45), also available at Pavilions grocery stores throughout Southern California this month. Two thousand cases of the specially labeled bottles were made for the occasion.

Joy and consistency help explain the restaurant’s runaway success; Ostini clearly feels passionate about his work. “We love what we do,” he says. “We get to make people happy with food and wine and make them smile. My secret is that I’ll live forever if I can look forward to the next harvest.”
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Vega Farms
(Elisa Parhad)

Spend a lazy day wine tasting at Vega Vineyard and Farm

Santa Barbara County Local Winery
The Santa Ynez Valley is classic California wine country, and Buellton has plenty of options to find your flavor. As a production hub for the entire wine region, undiscovered cellar doors abound.

For a full estate experience, plan a day at Vega Vineyard and Farm, where the whole family can enjoy a wide range of farm-based activities. Spread across 208 acres is a fully stocked mercantile for shopping, a beautifully appointed farm-to-table restaurant, a farmyard with animal feedings and a new family area called Pops Place featuring a playground, yard games and private cabanas for weekend rentals (starts at $125). While kids play, adults can explore the estate’s mostly Italian-focused wines and blends, such as Nebbiolo and Vermentino. Say hi to Tai, the farm’s Scottish highlander longhorn, on a tractor wagon ride across the historic property on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Vega Vineyard and Farm sits on the historic Rancho de Vega, which dates back to 1853. Its old, towering oaks, historic adobe and original carved wooden entrance sign give provenance to the grounds. For those who would like to linger a little longer, the historic adobe and a vineyard casita are available for overnight stays.
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Santa Ynez Horseback Rides
(Christina Ciaccio)

Trot into local horse culture at Santa Ynez Horseback Rides

Buellton Horse ranch
Amid Buellton’s rolling hills and shady oaks lives a strong culture of ranching, evidenced by the local cowboys and cowfolk that still meander through town. Local photographer Christina Ciaccio has been documenting this scene on her “Cowboys of Santa Ynez” Instagram account since 2020. “Dressed in cowboy hats, wranglers, and spurs,” she notes, “these cowboys are the real deal. Encountering them around town makes it seem as though you’ve just been transported into a live version of ‘Yellowstone.’ ”

Honor this heritage on horseback at Santa Ynez Horseback Rides. Starting at River View Park, trail rides follow the Santa Ynez River and include several river crossings, depending on the season. Look out for local wildlife, such as red-tailed hawks, eagles, rabbits, deer and even the dams of California Golden beavers.

Rides start at $119 for 60-, 75- or 90-minute trail rides. Those under 6 years old can opt for the One-Hour Pony Experience to learn about horsemanship, or they can feed farm animals at the petting zoo.

Pro-tip: Discounts for horseback rides are plentiful, if you know where to look. In addition to discounts with the Wine Country Fun Pass, ask for promo codes linked to your stay at Buellton hotels, or call for seasonal discounts.
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Mendenhall Museum, Buellton.
(Elisa Parhad)

Pump your brakes at the Mendenhall Museum

Buellton Museum
Although Buellton’s “Service Town, U.S.A.” moniker no longer holds water, its artifacts remain. Step back into its former automotive era at the Mendenhall’s Museum of Gasoline Pumps and Petroliana, just off the route of the former highway.

Jack Mendenhall owned a service station from 1957 to 1978 in Buellton before becoming a traveling salesman of road signs. His eye for color, art, quirk and history compelled him to keep a few — ahem, a few hundred — alongside vintage gasoline pumps, oil cans and the beloved automobiles he and other family members used to challenge land speed records. (The museum doubles as the Hall of Fame for Land Speed — Jack is a member of the prestigious 200 MPH Club.)

Today, Mendenhall’s legacy is his former wrecking yard turned museum and home, where his son Mark and wife Vickie live. Visitors can book a 1.5-hour tour for $15, led by a family member. Starting in the couple’s living room, visitors will weave in and out of archival garages, and end up in their diner-inspired kitchen. You’ll leave with a healthy respect for America’s unique roadside culture, and you’ll start to appreciate highway esoterica on your next road trip.
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Flying Flag
(Elisa Parhad)

Stay in style at Flying Flags RV Resort & Campground

Buellton Hotel
While downtown offers plenty of enticing inns and hotels, Flying Flags RV Resort & Campground offers unique amenities and lodging options that’ll make you not want to ever leave the property. Flying Flags features cozy gathering spaces, several pools and hot tubs, a splash pad, yard games, eateries, an off-leash dog park and events. It all adds up to the location earning the “resort” in its name—even if it is ostensibly a campground. The full range of available lodgings is impressive, each equipped with private porches, yards and communal areas to relax with the ones you came with.

In addition to the RV hookups and car-tent sites, there are glamping style safari tents (with a great area for cooking privately at the back), air-conditioned Airstreams, canned ham-style vintage trailers and a range of cottages and cabins. The Wine Cabins are the most upscale option with gated entry and a private pool. With so many possibilities, everyone is bound to find their sweet spot. For those who partake in multigenerational travel, this is where you’ll want to congregate.

Flying Flags Resort is the sister property to the adjacent Sideways Inn and Lounge, where overnight guests share amenities, including a pool and a well apportioned gym. Be sure to look up to Room 234, where Miles and Jack stayed in “Sideways,” but don’t disturb the current lodgers.
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Na Na Thai
(Elisa Parhad)

Explore the dishes of Bangkok at Na Na Thai

Buellton Thai
Los Angeles is known for having some of the best culinary treasures nestled into strip malls, and in the case of Na Na Thai, the same is true for Buellton. Open the unassuming doors to a bright world of color with red tables accented by a fun mix of turquoise and pink hues, mimicking a rich mouthful of flavors.

Ashley and Nik Ramirez opened Na Na Thai to bring back a taste of their time abroad in Thailand. They process Thai staples and locally sourced veggies and proteins by hand, giving their dishes an incredibly authentic, full-bodied flavor. “Our charcoal is Thai, our peanuts are Thai, our rice and of course our array of fish sauces (and more) all hail from Thailand,” says Ashley. “We are trying to serve the community authentic Bangkok street food, just as we remembered it when we lived there.”

Start out with the Moo Ping (grilled pork skewers) and Lumpia (Filipino-style fried spring rolls filled with curried beef) and move on to the Gai Tod (fried chicken) with crispy garlic and Nam Jim sauce. Another favorite is Pla Tod, whole fried sea bass with a three-flavor sauce. “Nothing reminds me more of sitting on a plastic stool in Bangkok than eating this fish,” says Ashley.

You too will be transported by the authentic tastes and details. Even the rice is served up in plastic wrap inside a bamboo container to keep it soft and moist, just like in the old country.
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Industrial Eats
(Elisa Parhad)

Tap into the local food scene at Industrial Eats

Buellton Dine In
Industrial Eats, housed in a repurposed warehouse and anchored by two wood-fired ovens, is a must-stop for those with a fervor for flavor. A casual atmosphere and communal tables encourage mingling, and I found my guide in regular customer and tablemate Gabriel Meadows. “Get the white shrimp appetizer and skirt steak pizza,” he said. “Then dip the slices in the shrimp sauce.” I did so and more, experiencing the brilliance of a street taco made into a pizza, complete with cilantro, lime, queso and wood-fired dough.

In line with the combo of food I ordered for dinner, the menu is broken down into “Pizza” and “Not Pizza,” complete with fish dishes, salads, sandwiches and elevated sides, such as kabocha squash with pomegranate and feta. You’ll find it all written out on hanging kraft paper, reflecting a changing menu based on the availability of local produce and proteins. (No time for a meal? The craft butcher shop also offers a wide range of meats and cheeses upon availability.)

The brilliance and ease of this restaurant is akin to the allure of Buellton — a laid-back mix of high and low, perfectly attending to adult tastes while satisfying the needs of kids (and kids at heart) too. Much like the experience of Miles and his travel mate, Jack, in “Sideways,” each in their own way, Buellton enabled them to find their bliss.
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