In L.A., tacos are soul food. Here are 9 spots that prove it
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The soul food lexicon is ever-expanding, encompassing and weaving in flavors and influences of the South, Caribbean and from across Africa. Here in Southern California, tacos also emerge as part of our soul food canon, based on recipes that trace back to Black kitchens.
At first glance they might resemble the hard-shelled “gringo” tacos at fast-casual restaurants. But the seasoned ground beef (and, often, turkey) in these tacos is never bland or mushy, the cheese and lettuce are shredded fresh, and the fried tortillas are crisp, never stale. Instead of bottled options, the taco sauce is often made in-house, balancing peppery heat with a tang that recalls good barbecue sauce. They’re the afternoon snack that our moms and friends’ moms made, and for more than 30 years, Black-owned taco stands have specialized in this homey dish.
Opened on South Central Avenue in 1989 by Mack Jones, Original Taco Pete calls itself the “home of the Black taco.” The family recipe was passed down by Jones’ aunts Gladys and Garthea and remains the same all these years later, though the menu has expanded to include burritos, burgers and sandwiches with a range of fillings. Similarly, Sky’s Gourmet Tacos, opened on Pico Boulevard in 1992 by Barbara “Sky” Burrell, started with just five tacos on the menu, including the spicy-sweet shrimp that’s coated in a proprietary sauce and remains a top seller.
For more than three decades, Black chefs in Los Angeles have been making the taco their own, turning it into a staple of California soul cuisine.
Local soul food restaurants also have found inspiration in tacos. Stevie’s Creole Cafe hosts a weekly Taco Tuesday where they wrap hot honey shrimp, jerk chicken, oxtails and other specialty meats in street-taco-sized tortillas. At Alta Adams, a vegan taco that blends African, Caribbean and Latin flavors is a newcomer to the California soul menu.
Tacos are a frequent canvas for invention in L.A., and rising cooks are bringing new takes on Black tacos, including a Parmesan-dotted option with a shell that’s bathed in enchilada sauce. At one of Mid-City’s favorite soul restaurants, a native Angeleno is preparing to relaunch a pandemic-born taco shop that highlights pan-Latin and African flavors.
Whether you grew up eating them or want to sample a new sector of our city’s sprawling taco scene, here are nine places to try Black tacos:
All Flavor No Grease
Alta Adams
My 2 Cents
Not Yo Tacos
Stevie's Creole Cafe
Sky's Gourmet Tacos
Taco Mell
Taco Pete
Worldwide Tacos
If you can pass all of these tests, you’ll be rewarded with tacos that absolutely live up to the hype. Even the ground beef tacos stand out, featuring a shatter-crisp shell, house taco sauce that seeps into juicy crumbles of meat, melted shredded cheese and a layer of shredded lettuce on top. The potato taco is another favorite, with fried potatoes coated in a masala spice blend, but more than 300 combinations exist, such as jerk duck, raspberry chipotle lamb and glazed lemon pepper shrimp, with options like BBQ jackfruit and grilled mushrooms for the plant-based crowd. Kill time by exploring the surrounding Leimert Park neighborhood and consider getting a snack so you don’t have to wait around hungry.
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